PLACES TO SEE IN THE LAKE DISTRICT

BUTTERMERE

The road descends from the heights of Honister to Buttermere lake, which is reached at Gatesgarth Farm at the foot of shapely Fleetwith Pike A car park just across the road from the farm is handy for those who wish to explore the dalehead. Others go on to the Fish Hotel at Buttermere village, where (wrote Joseph Bud worth in 1792), 'If you are fond of strong ale, I must tell, Buttermere is reckoned famous for it.' The tale is told of Mary Robinson, the 'Buttermere Beauty'; she was the daughter of a landlord of the Fish Hotel in the early 19th century and was noted for her looks.

Budworth saw her: 'She brought in part of our dinner, and seemed to be about fifteen. Her hair was thick and long, of a dark brown, and, though unadorned with ringlets, did not seem to want them; her face was a fine oval, with full eyes and lips as red as vermillion; her cheeks had more of the Iily than of the rose.' Mary attracted the attention of a 'gentleman' who introduced himself as the Hon. Alexander Hope MP, brother of the Earl of Hopetown. They were married in 1802. Unfortunately, the Hon. Alexander turned out to be John Hatfield, an imposter, bigamist, forger and bankrupt. His iniquities led to him being hanged at Carlisle. The Buttermere Beauty later married a local farmer.

NEWLANDS THE LAKE DISTRICT

It is possible to walk around Buttermere Lake, though one of its features, a tunnel cut in living rock, has been closed for safety reasons. When Rawnsley did the 'Buttermere Round', a break was arranged for lunch at Buttermere village. There was time to visit 'the tiny church, with its 12 steps in memory of the Apostles'. Follow the road up past the church for the third and final leg of the journey. Newlands Hause used to warm up the coach horses, and the most athletic passengers would be asked to walk beside the coach in order to lighten the load.

Newlands is a secluded valley, almost a basin among fells, with many farms and two tiny hamlets, Stair and Littletown, the last-named being well-known to Beatrix Potter, who included drawings of it in The Tale of Mrs Tiggywinkle. The mine levels dri ven into the flanks of Catbells and Maiden Moor were worked in the days of Queen Elizabeth 1. They yielded copper, lead and even a little gold.

SKIDDAW INFORMATION

Walkers who cross the fell or follow a good path from near the old Sanatorium at Threlkeld to Skiddaw House sample an austere landscape 'Back 0' Skidder'. Almost every creature that breathes is a sheep. Astonishingly, Skiddaw House, built for the use of shepherds, is now a youth hostel in season, with an out-room available.

Fell Skiddaw slate gives this northern fell country some grand sweeping lines, as anyone can see who follows the road from Mosedale beside the River Caldew to what remains of mining days at the highly mineralized hill called Carrock Fell. Those who walk the hills can look far south into the valley containing Thirlmere.

In the churchyard of Caldbeck lie the mortal remains of huntsman John Peel, who inspired a world-famous song. (Incidentally, he had a coat so gray the undyed wool of the Herdwick sheep). Westwards lies the market town of Cockermouth and classic Lake District terrain, with soaring fells admiring their reflections in Loweswater and Crummock Water.

CALDBECK THE LAKE DISTRICT

With beautiful open spaces and offering some of the most interesting Lake District walks, Caldbeck offers visitors some of the most spectacular landscapes in the lakes.
On to Caldbeck (meaning cold stream). This area is a vast sheep range also frequented by some of the stocky, dark fell-type ponies once ridden by the shepherds and used for light farm work. Caldbeck, built largely of limestone, is on the northern boundary of the Lake District National Park. Ask locally for directions to the Howk, a limestone gorge popularly thought of as a place for fairy revels, hence the alternative name Fairykirk. Caldbeck drew much of its former prosperity from industries powered by the fast-flowing River Caldew. Local people used to brag about their wealth.

COCKERMOUTH THE LAKE DISTRICT

Cockermouth is one of the most famous Lake District towns, and it attracts thousands of visitors every year.
Take the B5299 over the back of the fell country to the A595 and turn left for Cockermouth, a market town that stands back from Lakeland proper, its red sandstone buildings emphasizing its peripheral status. The town sits at the confluence of the rivers Cocker and Derwent and was given a market charter in 1221.

The broad, tree-lined main street is relatively quiet, having been bypassed by the A66. At the western end is Wordsworth House, now owned by the National Trust, where the poet was born in 1770. Wordsworth's father was steward to the Lonsdales. The house is furnished in the original style and some of the poet's personal effects are on display. Handson displays and characters in costume have been introduced. A memorial window to Wordsworth is to be found in All Saints Church, a Victorian structure with a 180ft (55m) spire and eight bells in the belfry.

The Cumberland Toy and Model Museum, in Banks Court, Market Place, exhibits British made toys from around 1900 to the present day, all from the personal collection of the owner. The museum also has a small shop with some unusual items.

LAKELAND SHEEP AND WOOL CENTRE COCKERMOUTH

The Lakeland Sheep and Wool Centre, by the A66-A5086 roundabout, is open all year round. The centre is a hands-on opportunity for visitors to meet some of Cambria’s most famous residents. Nineteen different breeds of sheep are on view during the indoor presentations, and sheepdogs are put through their paces in a 300-seat arena. In season, shearing is part of the show. The centre has a cafe restaurant.

Several villages in the Cockermouth area have produced famous men. Fletcher Christian, who mutinied on the Bounty, was born at Moorland Close in 1764. John Dalton of atomic theory fame was born in Eaglesfield in 1766. On the coast, Maryport harbor has been restored and has an attendant museum. Opposite the museum is Fishy Tale an amusing iron ore sculpture.

The Lake District may be well known for its scenery, lakes and landscapes, but it also boasts some of the best seaside towns in the north-west of England.

WHITEHAVEN

Whitehaven is a stimulating town, handy to St Bees Head, a Redstone promontory with seabirds. At the Helena Thompson Museum in Workington are displays charting the maritime and social history of the town Workington Hall in Curwen Park refuge for Mary Queen of Scots during her last night of freedom in May, 1568 is a ruin, but plaques give visitors a flavour of this impressive hall's long history, dating from the 14th century, when it was simply a pele tower.

THORNTHWAITE FOREST

Leave Cockermouth on the A5086 and take a left turn for Loweswater. The road follows the shore of the mile long lake and then on another half mile to the village of Loweswater, which is almost shadowed by Mellbreak St Kentigern's Church is not as old as the name suggests, having been rebuilt in Victorian times. Take the B5289 through Lorton Vale and drive to Buttermere village and back to enjoy fine views of Crummock Water.

Continue along the B5289 to High Lorton, and turn right at the B5292 for Whinlatter Pass, passing through Thornthwaite Forest with its Visitor Centre with audiovisual presentation, details of various trails and cycle routes, and tea shop.

MIREHOUSE THE LAKE DISTRICT

Drive around the top of Bassenthwaite Lake via the B5291 and head back to Keswick on the A591. About 31, miles (5km) before Keswick is Mirehouse. This large family home, built in 1666, was last up for sale in 1688. It was extended in 1790, the additions including a stylish porch of red sandstone. Mirehouse has many connections with celebrities in the world of literature and art.
John Spedding lived here; he was a school friend of Wordsworth at Hawkshead. The poet Tennyson stayed at Mirehouse in 1835 and was reported to 'admire the country near the lakes very much, but could dispense with the deluges of sapping rains.' On open afternoons, piano playing can be heard. Some visitors stroll to the edge of Bassenthwaite Lake and look around St Bega's, an ancient church that was restored in Victorian times.

CROSTHWAITE CHURCH NEAR KESWICK

Before driving into Keswick, visit Crosthwaite Church, on the northern edge of the town, where the gateway is adorned by Celtic motifs designed by Canon Rawnsley former vicar of Crosthwaite. Crosthwaite took its name from the cross erected in a clearing by St Kentigern The first church wound have been of wood and thatch, but traces of the Norman buiJding that succeeded it are to be found in the north aisle wall of the present church.

The 6th century was a good time for Keswick, judging by the extensions made to the church. In 1844 it was completely restored under the direction of Sir George Gilbert Scott. Look for the marble figure of Robelt Southey poet laureate at the time of Wordsworth who, incidentally, wrote an epitaph and succeeded his friend as poet laureate. Southey's grave is on the north side of the church.